Student monks keeping in touch at an internet kiosk in Thaton

• Mae Kok River Boat Trip
• Kok River
• Lisu Adventure In Ban Thaton
• Riding On The Mae Kok
• Bed & Breakfast, Lisu Style
• The Road From Thaton To Mae Salong

THERE are few opportunities in any part of the world these days to enjoy a pleasant and eventful cruise down a major river at a reasonable price, but in Chiangrai this opportunity makes itself available to you every day. The Mae Kok Boat Service Company in Ban Thaton, Chiangmai runs a Thaton-Chiangrai boat service with departures every day at 12.30 pm. The trip takes approximately three hours and there are many sights along the way.

The Mae Kok River winds into northern Thailand from Burma just north of Ban Thaton in upper Chiangmai Province. Ban Thaton was originally formed in this location because of the river and for nearly two centuries now the Mae Kok River has been the main trade artery between the Thaton-Fang area and Chiangrai. The Boat Service today runs primarily for passengers rather than goods, and departing from the boat landing in Thaton, the cruise is an excellent way to see the backwoods of Chiangrai Province.

The Mae Kok River runs through portions of very dense jungle and at occasional intervals hilltribe villages rest upon the banks. When the river is deep, during and immediately after the rainy season part of the river become rapids that must be traversed with skill. There are hundreds of small inlets off this river, and these are destinations of boat trips from Thaton carrying trekking parties. Approximately three-quarters of the distance from Thaton to Chiangrai is the Karen village of Ruammit, an elephant town where the Karen locals raise elephants and use them in their daily work in the jungle. This village is easily seen from the river and depending on what time of the day your boat passes Ruammit, the elephants may be bathing in the Mae Kok. They do so everyday in the late afternoon.

Ruammit can also be reached by boarding a long-tail boat from Chiangrai. These passenger boats are headed to Thaton and will pass Ruammit and other villages along the river; they depart the Chiangrai pier every morning at about 10.30 am.

From Thaton, other river activities include:

• Charter boat trips include one-hour or two-hour long-tail boat rides part of the way down the Mae Kok and docking at Shan or Lahu villages on the River with return trips the same day.
• Rafting trips which are part of local treks that venture down river and explore some of the river bank jungle area.
• Overnight camping and hiking trips at various spots along the river can be organized by local tour companies.

Floating downstream, it was as if we were lost amid the vast greenness that swept down from the surrounding hills to the water's edge. Only rarely did we glimpse a solitary fisherman, or a lone villager cutting bamboo on the banks, his small canoe piled with the thick green stems already gathered. Now and then thatched roofs pushed above the tree tops to announce an isolated hilltribe village, but mostly we were alone, the silence broken only by the swirl of the river and the lapping of the water against the side of the raft.

From the idyllic idleness of watching a stream slip by to the thrills of white-water rafting, rivers hold an irresistible attraction. In these days of high-tech and a shrinking world, it is perhaps the river journey which offers the last true sense of travel, with the spice of adventure and a sense discovery.

Flowing amid the high forested hills of Thailand's far north, the Kok may not be a world-ranking river, but along its modest 100-kilometre stretch between Thaton, close to the Burmese border, down to the town of Chiang Rai, it presents one of the most picturesque river journeys you can still make in the country.

A tributary of the Mekong, which it joins northwest of Chiang Rai, capital of Thailand's northernmost province, the Kok enters Thai territory from Burma through a steep-sided valley in the heart of the mysterious 'Golden Triangle", that part of Burma, Thailand and Laos which produces the bulk of the world's opium supply and where the rule of opium war lords still largely holds sway. In the early decades of the 20th century, French logging companies used the river to float timber down to the Mekong on what was the beginning of a long journey to the sawmills of Vietnam. Today, however, the Kok has reverted to being a backwater -- and luckily retains a near pristine character.

The same is essentially true of the landscape through which the river runs. Typified by mountain ranges peaking a 2,000 metres, the whole of the region is one of exceptional scenic beauty, the grander of nature complemented by the fascination of villages representing all six of northern Thailand's major hilltribe groups -- Yao, Akha, Lahu, Hmong, Lisu and Karen. These are tribal people who retain independent lifestyles, most readily witnessed in the elaborate and colourful dress peculiar to each group. With the addition of such varied attractions as temples, river rafting, elephant riding and trekking, the whole area is arguably Thailand's most undervalued region. And travelling the Kok river affords the perfect introduction.

It is in its upper reaches that the river is most interesting. Thaton is the first Thai settlement along its banks and it is here the journey begins. Nestled on the slopes of a densely forested mountain range, Thaton was originally two villages, a mostly Shan settlement of the north bank and a Thai base on the south bank, and although now administered as one Thai town, the two sides of the river still retain their individual characteristics. During the 1880s it was an important centre for trade between Thailand and Burma, and while that significance has been lost today, Thaton retains that air of expectancy common to border towns -- the present divide between Thailand and Burma is just two kilometres upstream.

Dominating the scene is the hilltop temple of Wat Thaton, where a giant white seated Buddha gazes serenely down on to the river below. With a profusion of other statuary and an architectural style which draws on both Thai and Chinese influences, the temple appears flamboyant, almost garish, prompting its local nickname -- Wat-ney-land. Yet for all its extravagance, Wat Thaton somehow fits its surroundings, enhancing a sense of the unreal in this isolated corner which seems to be world unto itself.

Thaton is not, however, without modern comforts, and the Maekok River Lodge offers excellent accommodation in a traditional teakwood building constructed on the river bank opposite Wat Thaton. The hotel's verandah faces directly on to the water's edge, and so delicious is the tranquil atmosphere that you could easily be lulled in spending a day or two simply sitting and watching the river go by. But the river beckons, too.

Below Thaton, the Kok first snakes through a broad, fertile valley in a series of wide curves, but after some 25 kilometres the hills close in and dense vegetation obscures the banks. Only the occasional hilltribe village peoples a landscape in which nature, not man, dominates. Traffic along the river is slight, and the occasional roar of a passing longtail boat, sleek wooden vessels powered by huge outboard motors with long propeller shafts, comes as a rude intrusion into a realm you had come to think of yours alone.

There is no white water as such along the river, but patches of submerged rocks can make navigation tricky along this roughly 50-kilometre middle section, adding excitement to the journey. In the past, a greater danger was posed by bandits who would now and again hold up and rob boats. Tragically a British tourist was shot dead in one such attack several years ago but, thankfully, the Thai border police have since beefed up security in the area and there have been no incidents of late. As one resident of Thaton told me, travelling the Kok river is now "probably safer than crossing Bangkok's busy Sukhumvit Road".

Along the last 25 kilometres to Chiang Rai, the valley opens up once again, presenting panoramas of the distant hills, while a few humped limestone outcrops dot the foreground. In just a hundred kilometres, the character of the river has changed from the secretive air of a border town, to the closed, silent world of a watery trail through jungle and hills, and on to the wide approach to Chiang Rai, an historic town founded in 1262 and once briefly the capital of a northern Thai kingdom.

Perhaps what is most amazing about such an unspoilt river is that it is so accessible to the traveller. Scheduled longtail boats ply the route daily from Thaton to Chiang Rai, taking about four hours to cover the journey. Alternatively, you can charter your own longtail boats and make stops at hilltribe villages along the way. Another option is to order your own bamboo raft for a trip which takes three days and two nights, with overnight stops at riverine villages.

The disadvantage of theses rafts is that you need give at least a week's notice for their construction -- they are moreover not so environmentally friendly as they cannot return upstream and are broken up in Chiang Rai, resulting in the waste of a type bamboo that is becoming scarce in Thailand.

If you are looking for a soft adventure trip, the best option is to take one of the inclusive packages operated by "Track of the Tiger Tours", based at the Maekok River Lodge. The company offers various itineraries, but the core of its programmes is a 2-day/1-night river trip by the tour operator's own raft-like barges -- custom-made jobs with flat 10m x 2m metal hulls, bamboo decking and a thatched roof. The rafts are powered by 1400 cc Toyota outboard engines, although the craft travel only part of the journey by motor, the rest by free-floating rafting.

On an overcast morning at the height of the rainy season I set out on the "Track of the Tiger" to explore the Kok. Stained a red-brown by the flood waters, the river was swollen and swift flowing, the current running at probably two to three knots. But we began the journey not by boat but by pick-up truck, visiting on the way several hilltribe villages. At a Lisu settlement we were treated to one of the village elders playing a traditional bamboo-and-gourd flute, its haunting plaintiff melody echoing in my mind as we continued on through spectacular hill country to rejoin the river and board our raft. Then it was the river which captured the imagination.

We were some 25 kilometres downstream from Thaton and the gentle, cultivated slopes of the valley had vanished, replaced by steeply rising hillsides thickly covered with vegetation. After getting underway, the boatman cut the engine and we floated silently downstream, a second boatman at the bows using a pole to keep us from swirling in the eddies of the swift-flowing water. As we tucked into a picnic lunch of chicken and rice, our isolation seemed complete and time slowed, the passage of the day punctuated only by the sight of a lonely hilltribe village and now and again slight rapids as the river squeezed through narrow channels.

By late afternoon we reached our basecamp, which appeared as yet another surprise in this enchanting world. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, on a bank overhung by lush greenery, were riverside bamboo pavilions with camp beds, kitchen, dining tables and, amazingly, hot showers produced by an ancient wood boiler tucked up against the hillside. A barbecue dinner of Thai and European dishes was served, tasting all the more delicious for its improbability in such a remote spot.

After an untroubled night's sleep under mosquito netting, we took to the river again the next day, drifting in silence through wisps of early morning mist which hung over the surface of the water. Soon the air cleared to reveal again stunning scenery as we navigated through steep gorges cloaked in thick bamboo. A brief stop at a Karen village was a disappointment; the riverfront settlement was clearly used to tourists, and its one street was lined with souvenir stalls.

But at another village a little further downstream we stopped to take an hour's elephant safari into the untamed countryside that lies beyond the river banks. Elephants are not the most comfortable animals to ride -- you feel as if you are in an open boat on the high seas -- but as my beast negotiated streams and rugged hillside trails I took confidence from the fact that, so I was told, elephants are more sure-footed than horses.

Back at the river we rejoined the raft and motored the remaining 20 kilometres down to Chiang Rai. With the valley gradually opening up, the hills receding into the background, we were gently re-acclimatized to the modern world, which suddenly announced itself with the sight of the high-rise Dusit Island Resort. The appearance of this luxurious hotel standing on its own patch of land in mid-stream was startling, but only because we knew what a different world existed just a little way upriver.

Lisu Adventure in Ban Thaton,
Chiang Mai

After reading the article "Bed and Breakfast, Lisu Style" in the July issue of Welcome to Chiangmai & Chiangrai I became very curious about Asa's Guest Home located in Ban Thaton. I have been trekking before and wanted to go again, but I was looking for something different. At Asa's, I found what I wanted.

I left Chiangmai on the 9 am bus from the Chang Puak bus station bound for Thaton. Once in Thaton, I walked along the main road, a short 200 meters or so north of the town to a songthaew stop. I was asked politely where I wanted to go and said the Lisu village. I was told that the songthaews departed every thirty minutes and we would be leaving in ten minutes. The trip would take an hour and a half.

The passengers of the vehicle were colorfully dressed Akha, Karen, Lisu, and Lahu tribal men, women and children. I rode on the top with other passengers, surrounded by baskets of various goods, and two school boys.

The driver was cautiously slow which made the views of the surrounding fields and mountains fantastic.

We made a right turn off the main road and the boys proudly told me that we were going to their village -- Baan Mai Mork Jaam. This was an extra treat since the songthaews go there only when they have enough passing passengers to go off of the main route. We traveled a couple of kilometers up a mountain side making the view from the top superb. We were looking down at the boys' Chinese style village combined with a beautiful Burmese style temple and the Mae Kok River snaking through the valley. After dropping the boys and other people off, we started down a dirt road winding through rice and vegetable fields. This was a delightful sight since many different ethnic hilltribes were working side by side in their colorful costumes. Some were planting rice and others were behind water buffaloes ploughing the muddy ground. The men were waving and shouting hello while the girls smiled and giggled. Compared to the modern city life I had just experienced, I felt as if I had just stepped back in the past in this unique place.

When we were back on the main road, I definitely wanted to return to that little village of Baan Mai Mork Jaam. It would be some other time as my plans were to go to Asa's home. But it turned out Asa's home was only a few kilometers away.

I was left off at the corner to the Lisu village. After paying the songthaew driver ten Baht, I was greeted by a motorbike taxi driver. He knew I wanted to go to Asa's Guest Home. He said that the 1,500 meter ride to his front door would be 20 Baht. When I agreed, he put my large backpack in the cradle between his legs. I hopped on the back and away we went up the hill through lynchee orchards while sighting the colorful Lisu women walking back to their homes. Their hoes were rested on their shoulders and baskets slung on their backs were filled with vegetables.

Upon arrival I was greeted with a warm smile.

"Hello, my name is Asa. May I ask you your name?"

His wife followed quickly with a refreshing cold washcloth and handed it to me saying "My name is Wheepah, please come and sit down out of the hot sun".

There was a couple from England who had arrived about an hour before myself. They were looking at a photo album and recommendation letters from visitors who had been in the jungle with Asa's family. We talked together and decided we would do a one night jungle trek with visits to a few primitive villages together.

That afternoon we were shown around the Lisu village. Later during that evening I had a wonderful dinner while Asa's father played a Lisu musical instrument which he had made by hand.

The next morning we left his house with three guides -- Asa's two brothers and uncle. They all spoke English but were somewhat shy at first. During the first couple of hours, we walked uphill while witnessing tribal people working in their corn fields on almost vertical slopes. We stopped often to take a drink of water and rest under the shade while admiring the view down below.

We then came upon a stream that lead into a dense jungle. Our guides began harvesting herbs, spices, and wild vegetables. They told us what they were called in Lisu and all the medical benefits of eating jungle plants. They also gathered wild fruits, berries, bamboo shoots, and banana flowers. By the time we reached a waterfall for lunch, we were already half full from tasting the delicious wild fruits and berries. We rested a while cooling off under the waterfall. Many colorful birds and butterflies were enjoying the fresh water as we much as we were and they didn't seem to mind our intrusion into their territory.

From here we left the stream and cut our way through the jungle to a plateau on top of the mountain. We were told to stop while one guide proceeded on his own. He came back in a few minutes. Then we followed him to where he was pointing at animal tracks in the soft ground. We had to move on quietly. We hid behind a tree and saw dirt flying high into the air from a hole in the ground. Our guides raced to the hole and an awful scream was heard with the words "come here quick!"

We ran to the hole and our guides had a huge wild hog pinned to the ground squealing loudly. They tied a rope around one hind leg and pulled it away from the hole. They pinned it to the ground again and released the rope and the hog vanished into the brush. We were told the hog was digging for roots to eat and if it saw us first it might attack.

I asked why they didn't kill it for eating. I was told that they raised pigs and did not like to harm jungle animals. They also said the very poor tribal people hunt them because they need the food, and so they leave the animals for the less fortunate.

We came up with another stream and started down a waterfall where we made camp. Our guides began building two huts out of bamboo and banana leaves. Rice was wrapped in banana leaves and stuffed inside the bamboo. Water was brought from a nearby spring in hollow bamboo tubes. All the vegetables from the jungle, along with those brought with us were then loaded into the bamboo tubes and placed on the campfire. A live chicken that the guides brought with was prepared then put on skewers and placed near the fire. Cups, glasses, bowls, spoons, chopsticks, and all cooking utensils were handmade out of bamboo in front of our eyes.

We showered under the waterfall while our guides made an altar for the jungle spirits to discourage them from entering our camp. After a delicious dinner, we fell asleep to the sounds of the jungle.

We awoke to a delicious breakfast. We then followed the stream downhill and out of the jungle. As soon as we left, an Akha village lay before us nestled in a mountain canyon. We stopped there for lunch and visited with the Akha people for an hour or so before moving on to visit a small Karen village. We finally returned to Asa's around three in the afternoon.

We were all very tired but still buzzing from the experience. The evening was quiet as everyone was writing in their journals about the great time we had in the jungle. After a refreshing shower we had another wonderful dinner. The comfortable bed in our own rooms were inviting. Sleep came easily and the next morning came early as we ate breakfast and said our good byes.

This is an adventure I would gladly do again and again. For those who say "been there, done that" I bet you haven't done this one yet.

Riding on the Mae Kok River

One of the most enjoyable things to do while visiting Northern Thailand is to take a "Long-Tail" boat ride. The most popular ride is on the Mae Kok river from Thaton, in far north Chiangmai province, to Chiangrai. Most ride the local bus from the Chang Puak bus station departing at 7 and 9 am, although those leaving at 9 might miss the boat, which departs at 12:30 pm from Thaton, as the bus journey is 3 1/2 hours. It's much better to take your time and stay in Thaton for the evening.

The boat holds 12 passengers but don't worry as there are plenty of boats. Each person sits sideways with their legs crossed for the entire 3 hour trip with one stop in Ban Mae Salak, about 45 minutes from Thaton. However, there is a much easier and better way to enjoy this great journey on the Mae Kok and that is to go from Chiangrai to Thaton.

The reason is 95% of the people riding the boats start in Thaton leaving a lot of empty boats going in the opposite direction. The boats depart Chiangrai at 10:30 am arriving in Thaton about 2 pm. This way you miss the heat of the day and you will probably be the only one in the boat. This means you can stretch out and relax while enjoying the beautiful scenery along the river. Local hill tribe people who live along the river also take this boat as it will stop for them if they wave it down. The boats from Thaton filled with tourists going to Chiangrai won't stop but those who live along the river with boats and provide a ferry service to Chiangrai do.

Another possibility is you can charter a boat and spend the evening on the river at the hot springs next to an Akha hill tribe village before going on to Thaton. This is a great way to enjoy the river for a group of two to four persons. Good food can be had just across the river from the hot springs at the Karen village of Rhummit where you can also arrange for elephant riding. Your boat driver will take you there when you want to eat. If you don't speak Thai it is best to arrange for a guide from one of the tour companies or your guest house in Chiangrai. They can also provide things like blankets or sleeping bags and food if you would rather eat by campfire.

Sleeping is aboard the boat which has plenty of room and comfortable. The hot springs has toilets and showers along with a small store. The springs run into the river which is a good place to take a refreshing bath as the water is not too hot. The Akha hill tribe village next to the hot springs is very authentic with most dressed in their traditional costumes and all living in Bamboo houses. Not many tourists visit the village as most go to Rhummit to do elephant riding and trekking which leaves this area peaceful and mostly unspoiled.

The last bus from Thaton to Chiangmai leaves at 2:25 in the afternoon. Don't be in a hurry to leave as Thaton has many things to see and do along with accommodations from 60 to 2000 baht. There is also Asa's guest home in a Lisu village that is very easy to get to from Thaton if you would like a nice hill tribe experience. The Tourist Police in Thaton will help you with any information you may need. They are located along the river not far from the boat landing.

Hundreds of people each day during the busy season ride to boats from Thaton to Chiangrai. They all leave about the same time in a large convoy one behind the other. For a better experience be different and see the river in the opposite direction. When you see the boats full of people passing just smile and wave from your uncrowded boat as they are sure to be envious.

(This article is contributed by All Thailand Experiences - Editor.)

BED AND BREAKFAST LISU STYLE

When travelling around North Thailand it can be an advantage to look for areas that are hardly mentioned in Guide Books if at all. One such place is a Lisu hilltribe village located 14 kms. east of Ban Thaton on Highway 1089 in far north Chiangmai province.

I was riding the 7.20 am. bus from the Chang Puak bus station in Chiangmai to Ban Thaton to catch the 12.30 boat to Chiangrai. There were nine travellers on the bus including myself. Everyone agreed with their guide book that there was nothing to see or do in Ban Thaton except to get the boat to Chiangrai. I asked if anyone had been to Ban Thaton before. The answer is no.

I myself don't like to use Guide Books but I do get my information from the Tourist Authority of Thailand which is up to date and factual. I had recently picked up a brochure there about Ban Thaton with a map of the Mae Kok River that I haven't looked at yet. I pulled it out of my pack and began reading and studying the map. I then decided I would spend one night in Ban Thaton as the brochure was well written and interesting. I had also read an article in the May issue of "Welcome to Chiangmai & Chiangrai Magazine" that got me thinking of visiting Ban Thaton in the first place.

When we arrived in Ban Thaton, it was noon. Everyone took their packs and hurried to the boat office like race horses with blinders on. I however was stunned by the remarkable beauty of this small quiet town. I walked across the bridge spanning the Mae Kok River stopping to take a few pictures. I then went to the Tourist Police booth to ask for information about guest houses. I was politely told that there were several and that I could leave my pack with them while I look for a place to stay. It took me about 30 minutes to look at all six guest houses. Again, everyone greeted me with a smile and hospitality that made me feel welcome.

After I checked into the guest house I met a couple from Holland that had been here for several days. They had mountain biked to 7 different hilltribe villages, rode a motorbike to Mae Salong, went camping in the jungle and were relaxing today before a 2 day bamboo raft trip to Chiangrai the next morning. They mentioned that Ban Thaton has been the most enjoyable part of their Thailand Holiday so far.

Within one hour of checking around, I had gathered all the information on how to enjoy the area as the Dutch couple had. For the information on jungle camping, however, I had to go to a guest house in the Lisu village 14 Kms. from Ban Thaton but that would wait until tomorrow. For now I wanted to visit the beautiful Wat Thaton overlooking the town and Mae Kok River.

Living in Bangkok I have visited many temples but none with the natural beauty of Wat Thaton. I spent the afternoon here among the large Buddha statues and that of Guan-im, exploring a cave with a waterfall and a statue of a Chinese monk. I enjoyed walking the tree covered grounds and flower gardens the most. I spoke English with the novice monks who were very friendly and told me a lot about Wat Thaton. The views of the surrounding area from Wat Thaton are the most spectacular I have seen in North Thailand. While admiring the view from the rest area under the large Gold Buddha, I was thinking about the travelers who quickly took the boat to Chiangrai and very glad I didn't join them.

The next morning, I rented a mountain bike for the 14 km. journey to the guest house in the Lisu village the Dutch couple had mentioned. I asked the Tourist Police if the area was safe. They assured me it was and off I went. The mountain bike ride was wonderful and easy going. I visited Lahu, Akha, and Karen villages, saw silk and cotton being woven done in peoples homes, and had noodle soup and a coke for only 12 Baht. Along the way I saw only two western travelers who raced by me at 80 K.P.H. hurrying to get to Mae Salong.

When I arrived at Asa's Guest Home I was cheerfully greeted by the Lisu family and offered an Ice cold wash cloth (Pa-Yen). There were four other travelers there, two girls from Canada and a couple from Denmark. I joined them drinking Chinese tea and eating fruit provided free for guests. All four had been there a few days and totally enjoying themselves. They commented that this village was more like bed and breakfast found in western countries,-- Lisu hilltribe style,-- rather than a guest house.

The owner, Asapha, told us he considered his place a guest home not a guest house. The feeling was just that, very warm, friendly, and hospitable. Asa was right, a house is not necessarily a home but I do feel at home here.

My bamboo room was very clean with comfortable bed and mosquito net. Dinner was family style, all you can eat, consisting of 3 lovely dishes with rice, plus fruit for dessert. Breakfast was eggs, toast, and fruit, again all you can eat. A toilet with shower was also available for guests.

Before dinner Asa took us to see the breathtaking view from the hill above his house and then a guided tour of his village. That evening we were entertained by his father playing 4 different musical flutes and Lisu Banjo he made by hand. All this for 150 Baht per person (room, food, etc.) I was having such a good time I forgot to ask about the camping in the jungle. The next morning, I had breakfast and looked through his picture book filled with wonderful recommendation letters of those who have camped in the jungle. I decided I wanted to go but that would have to wait until next month when I had more time.

I was in a hurry to leave to return the mountain bike. Then catch the bus to Chiangmai and another to Bangkok. However, we found out from Asa that there were 3 V.I.P. buses daily at 4.30 pm. from Ban Thaton to Bangkok. We all went to Ban Thaton by Song-Thaew with my rented mountain bike riding on top. We ate lunch, watching the newcomers rushing to catch the boat to Chiangrai. With delightful smiles on our faces we wondered how long it would be before Asa's Guest Home would be mentioned in the Guide Book. We hoped it wouldn't be.

My next visit to Ban Thaton will certainly be longer. I still want to do the jungle camping, motorbike to Mae Salong, and the bamboo raft trip to Chiangrai. I can't wait.

The Road from Thaton to Mae Salong

It is the road from Thaton to the village of Mae Salong or Chiangrai. The route is about 42 kilometers to Mae Salong or 92 kilometers to Chiangrai, and passes dozens of villages of Akha, Lahu, Lisu, Karen, Yao and KMT Chinese people.

Some of the villages are small, native places some kilometers from the main road, and some have paved streets and electricity, but all of them are unique and interesting . There are zeelors that run between Thaton and Mae Salong, and from there to Chiangrai city. For a more flexible trip, rent a motorcycle or Jeep in Chiangrai and make a two or three days of it before looping back. You can also rent a mountain bike in Thaton to go riding in this flat area.

Thaton itself is a major docking point for boats going to Chiangrai. For that reason, many people overlook the sights in town. Thaton is home to the famous Wat Thaton, the head temple in the district of Mae Ai . It is also the beginning of a road that runs to Chiangrai through Mae Salong and many Hilltribe villages. Thaton is located in a bend of the Mae Kok River in the quiet hills of northern Thailand. There are direct buses from Bangkok to Thaton, as well as from Chiangmai.

Instead of going directly from Thaton to Chiangrai as soon as you get there, take a day or two and visit some of the friendly Hilltribe villages on the road to Chiangrai. If travelling by water is more your thing, you can catch the boat from a village further along the way, but be sure to buy your ticket in Thaton first.

The best time to leave Thaton is around 8 AM to capture the best side of village life along the way. At 8 there will still be people in the village who have not gone to their fields yet, and those that have gone will be your travelling companions in zeelors. Riding in zeelors will help you meet more people and get a better sense of local village life. Renting a mountain bike or motorcycle in Thaton is another good way to get around, with the advantage that you do not have to wait for a new zeelor or motorcycle taxi to get where you are going.

Heading out of town the first stop along the way is the turnoff to the silk and Sa paper making village of Baan Mai . It is about nine kilometers from Thaton to the turnoff. To get to the village, take either a zeelor or a motorcycle taxi from the zeelor stop on the highway to the town three kilometers away. If you are on a motorcycle or mountain bike, turn right onto the rough concrete road and travel about three kilometers to the village.

Baan Mai is a Chinese Shan village with several silk weaving houses. There are some very good deals on silk and Sa (mulberry bush) paper here. Most of the people keep their stock in their houses so you have to ask them to see the full selection. The local temple, Wat Mork Cham, is a Burmese Shan style Wat, so it makes an interesting change from the usual.

There are two ways to get back to the main road and continue your trip. There are motorcycle taxis and zeelors that run from Baan Mai to the highway on the paved road, or you can walk two kilometers along a dirt track past a little-known Lahu village. It is a good walk through some picturesque rural scenery, including locals working their rice fields. The road is easily negotiable on foot, by bicycle or by motorcycle.

No matter which way you get to the main road, the next stop is the Akha village at Huai Sala. To get there from the Baan Mai turnoff, ride or drive two kilometers in the same direction until you come to the Huai Sala on the left side of the road. The dirt road from the Lahu village comes out only about 100 meters down the road from the Huai Sala.

Right by the Huai Sala is an Akha village. This particular village is quite touristy, and the people can be a little persuasive. Stop here, though, because it is an interesting village all the same. The people here usually expect to be paid for the privilege of taking their picture. After you get enough of the salespeople here, head off down the road to the Lisu village at Louta.

Louta is one of the more prosperous villages long the way. There is an excellent guest house here run by a Mr. Asa, who also does treks into the more remote areas and villages. To get there, go just one kilometer up the main road from the Huai Sala and you will come to a turnoff. There is a sign in Thai and English that says "Lisu Louta". The 1500 meter road to this village starts is paved. Just look for the signs pointing the way to "Asa's Guest House". Asa is the only guide that many of these villages will allow, so pay a visit to his guest house before setting off. This is a good place to spend the night before continuing your journey.

The next stop along the way is the town of Muang Ngam . To get there, just cross the street from the turnoff to Louta and walk about 100 meters away from Thaton. Just on the other side of the street is a dirt road that leads to the village of Muang Ngam. This is a Christian Karen village and the villagers are friendlier than most. They are more apt to allow picture taking and watching them work in their traditional costumes. Another ten minute walk along the road takes you to a Buddhist Karen village that is very similar to the first village. In this village there is a secluded guest house owned by a Thai man and his Karen wife. If you stay in the guest house, you will have a good chance of visiting the Yao village not far away.

To get to the Yao village, walk 30 minutes in the direction away from the road. The village will be on your left. It is home to only about six families, so there is a possibility that no one will be home when you get there. The best time to visit is around 6 in the evening, so the best thing to do is stay in the Karen guest house.

From here to the Christian Lahu village of Pa Tai is a 15 minute walk. This is a very developed village with modern stone buildings. A five minute walk down the river and over a hill takes you to another, more traditional Lahu village. To get back to the highway from Pa Tai, you can take a motorcycle taxi over the six kilometers. They may be hard to find, though, so try explaining to one of the villagers and maybe you can get a ride on their motorbike.

Back on the main road, there is a hot spring about 1 kilometer further on towards Mae Salong. It looks like a big resort, and it has covered baths for soaking off the grime and tiredness of a day in the bush. This is a good place to stop for lunch.

The rest of the trip to the Mae Salong turnoff is 15 kilometers, and the way is dotted with Chinese, Shan, and Akha villages. After the turnoff and just seven kilometers from Mae Salong proper there is a Lisu and an Akha village that get very few visitors. To get to them, look for a sign reading "Lisu Handicraft". That is the turnoff, and the village is another kilometer or so. Don't buy handicrafts from the first couple of houses, but go further into the village. After that, go back to the main road to visit the Akha village.

About 1/2 kilometer further on towards Mae Salong is a sign reading "Akha village." Turn right here to see this village. Keep to the right of the fork in the road, and you will come to the top of the village. Many experienced travelers have said that this is one of the best Akha villages in Thailand. After returning to the main road, you will come to the town of Mae Salong in about 5 kilometers. It is a small, dusty border town that has very little to see. It is interesting as a stopover to Chiangrai, but the massage parlors and Karaoke bars can be a little much, as can accommodation prices. Visit for a few hours, but the scenery is better on the way to Chiangrai.

The best way to get to Chiangrai is through Mae Chan . The scenery is better than the direct route and there are no big tour groups stopping off at villages en masse. To go this way, head back towards Thaton to the Mae Chan intersection, and flag down a green zeelor to Chiangrai. If you have a motorcycle, just go direct. There are quite a few Akha villages clinging to hillsides in this area that are good for exploring.

To get back to Thaton from Chiangrai, take the road through Mae Suai. Mae Suai is just South of Chiangrai, and the road from there to Thaton is a beautiful stretch of undisturbed villages and scenery. The road comes out five kilometers South of Thaton, so you can drive back or continue your trip by heading South to Chiangmai.

This trip is a great weekender, or take three days and enjoy yourself. At any rate have a great trip, and maybe we'll see you there!